• Autumn is the best time to plant fruit trees: the soil is still warm, it rains more frequently, and the roots develop before winter.
• Choosing the right rootstock, the correct planting distance and a precise first cut guarantee a rich harvest in the first few years.
• Advantages of autumn planting
• Active roots and fresh air → stress-free growth.
• By spring, the tree is already well established and blooms earlier.
• Less watering: Rainwater naturally replenishes soil moisture.

Selection of species and documents

• Apple M9 → small, early ripening, requires support and fertile soil.
• MM106 → moderately vigorous growth, good drought resistance.
• Pear BA29 or Pyrodwarf → smaller, early ripening.
• Gisela cherry 5/6 → compact, high-yielding.
• Wangenheimer/St. Juliener Plum A → variable tolerance to moisture and soil.
• Crown seedlings = faster growth; cuttings = more economical and easier to train.

Ideal location and soil

• Sunny, well-ventilated and sheltered location.
• Deep, loose, humus-rich soil without waterlogging.
• Low groundwater level (at least 1.2 m).
• Optimal pH value: 6.2–7.0.
• For heavy soils, create mounds or a drainage layer of gravel.

Planting time depends on climate

• Cooler regions: Late September to mid-October.
• Lowlands: Mid-October to the end of November.
• Do not plant just before severe frost.

Recommended planting distance

• Apfel M9: 3–3,5 × 1–1,2 m
• MM106: 4–4,5 × 2–2,5 m
• Pear BA29: 3.5–4 × 1.5–2 m; on heavy rootstock: 5–6 × 3–4 m
• Plum/cherry on low rootstock: 4–4.5 × 2–3 m

Planting instructions

• Drive the stake (2–2.5 m) into the ground on the leeward side before planting the tree.
• Planting hole: 60–80 cm wide, 40–50 cm deep.
• Mix the soil with mature compost and sand if the soil is heavy.
• Optional: Sprinkle the roots with mycorrhizae.
• The root collar should be 2–3 cm above the soil surface.
• Fill with soil, press down lightly and water with 10–20 liters of water.
• Form a small watering rim around the base of the trunk.

Anchoring and protection

• Tie the tree in a figure-eight pattern using a soft ribbon (without damaging the bark).
• Protect the trunk with a rodent net or wire spiral.
• Protect from frost damage with white paint or lime.
• Apply mulch (5–8 cm), taking care not to touch the bark (leave 5 cm free).

First cut: Important tips for shaping

• Seedlings without a crown: Cut back to 80–90 cm to encourage branching.
• Seedlings with crown: Leave 3-4 main branches, cut back to one third and remove the central bud.
• Stone fruit (cherry, plum): Best pruned in spring.

Fertilization and initial care

• Do not use fresh manure or nitrogen-rich fertilizer when planting.
• Add compost or a mild plant extract in the spring.
• Only apply lime if the soil is acidic (4–6 weeks after adding compost).

Common mistakes

• Planted too deep → covered crown = rot.
• Missing support post → risk of being uprooted by wind.
• Mulch sticks to the trunk → excessive moisture and voles.
• Waterlogging without drainage → root suffocation.

Last check before winter

• The support post is firmly in place, but the adhesive tape is loose.
• Protective measures against wild animals are in place.
• The mulch is dry and detached from the bark.
• The irrigation basin is ready to collect winter rain.

Result: A tree planted well in autumn awakens vigorously in spring, grows evenly and bears healthy, sweet fruit for years.